If you want passion, watch the Greeks and Turks. I imagine places like Serbia have good atmosphere, but I never see game footage.
On Spain, I'm still shocked by the weakness of the La Liga teams as they look to employ effectively the same contract. There are 18 of them vs Barca and Madrid. They should've demanded the exact same money for everyone to start the season, and then distributed some portion of the money based on league position. I just don't understand what leverage Barca and Madrid had. Yes, 90% of La Liga viewers want to watch those two teams, but those two teams need an opponent, right?