There's a huge amount to like about it.
The lack of any desire to "ground" the fundamentally insane plotline, and just to maximise the indulgent exploration of pathological psychology. The super-charged aesthetics, every other moment there's an immaculately conceived dream sequence or a physics experiment shot in super high frame rate, not to mention a use of anatomy, light and dark that wouldn't shame Caravaggio. And the quality cast.
It's also great the liberties the creators are taking with the novels, they need it. The season went off track a bit roughly where the Mason Verger arc was introduced, I think.