Ok, have it all set up now after three hours of fucking about.
First thoughts: it's massive. Almost have to hyperextend my thumb to hit 'back'. Screen is very bright, crisp and clear. I tried bringing my old Nexus S background over, which of course now is either about the size of a postage stamp, or noticeably pixellated when stretched.
I'm used to vanilla Android, and the HTC stuff on it seems like absolute BS. Crappy clones of most of the vanilla apps. Once a stable Cyanogen mod comes out for it I'll probably load that it and completely reconfigure.
Swype keyboard is much more responsive than on the Nexus S, which doesn't surprise me because it's a bit of a processor hog. Sound and video are both excellent for a phone.