I agree with all that Gazza - clearly The Wire is a bloody excellent show, I don't even think the article particularly disputes that, I think it just jabs slightly at its apotheosis in the critical mainstream, and finds a few weak spots doing so.
@[deleted] Also agree.
The thing about Mad Men is that, although it does explore "gender" in interesting ways, the plot of the show is principally driven by Don's endless liaisons with hot chicks, and in that respect (and only that respect) it's at about the level of James Bond in terms of its sexual politics.
Although Qs is absolutely right that Mad Men is about "loneliness, the constant chase for a happiness you can never achieve and just all sorts of existential doubt", those themes come to light via the handsome, masculine, intelligent and impeccably dressed Don fucking lots of attractive heiresses, secretaries, next door neighbours, business rivals etc, and thereby providing a staple diet of wish fulfilment for the male viewer.
Of course, there are loads of other ways it looks at gender, but they're secondary to that central pattern in my opinion.
Yet to see the latest eps though, so make of that what you will.